Ang Rita Sherpa (The Snow Leopard)

Ang Rita Sherpa, often revered as the “Snow Leopard,” earned this legendary title due to his extraordinary feats in high-altitude mountaineering, particularly his unmatched success on Mount Everest. The moniker “Snow Leopard” was given to him for his agility and near-mystical ability to navigate the Himalayas.

Ang Rita gained international acclaim for being the first person to climb Mount Everest 10 times without the use of supplemental oxygen—a feat no one else had accomplished at the time of his death in 2020. Climbing Everest is already a daunting challenge, but doing so without bottled oxygen is exponentially more difficult. At elevations above 8,000 meters (often called the “death zone”), the oxygen levels are about one-third of those at sea level. This environment severely limits physical and cognitive functioning. Most climbers require supplemental oxygen to survive and perform. Ang Rita, however, defied this standard. His climbs demonstrated an almost superhuman adaptation to high altitude, a quality likened to the elusive and powerful snow leopard of the Himalayas. The snow leopard is a rare, elusive animal native to the high Himalayas. It is known for surviving in some of the harshest climates on Earth, blending into its surroundings with grace and strength. Ang Rita Sherpa, like the animal he was named after, seemed to defy nature’s limits. His ability to thrive in high altitudes and extreme conditions was similar to the snow leopard's

He was born in 1948 in the village of Thame in the Solukhumbu District of Nepal—an area renowned for producing numerous extraordinary Sherpas. His first successful ascent of Everest occurred in 1983, and his final summit was in 1996. Each climb was done without supplemental oxygen and often in extremely difficult weather conditions. One of his most notable ascents came in 1987, when he summited Everest in winter—the only person to have ever done so without bottled oxygen. Winter climbs on Everest are incredibly rare due to harsher storms, lower temperatures, and higher wind speeds. Surviving such a climb, let alone completing it successfully, cemented his place as a living legend.

Beyond Everest, Ang Rita also climbed several other challenging peaks, often serving as the lead guide for international expeditions. His knowledge, expertise, extraordinary abilities, calm demeanor, and physical prowess saved many lives on the mountain. As a result of his extraordinary achievements, he received numerous accolades during his lifetime. The Nepalese government awarded him with the prestigious “Guinness World Record” certificate for the most successful ascents of Everest without oxygen. In 2020, he was honored with a state funeral in Kathmandu, a rare honor reserved for national heroes in Nepal.

Despite his fame, Ang Rita remained humble. Unlike many celebrated climbers who write books or give public talks, he kept a low profile. He did not speak English fluently and did not seek international recognition. In many ways, this humility made his accomplishments even more remarkable—he climbed for the love of the mountains, his livelihood, and the legacy of his people.