Swayambhunath (aka Monkey Temple)

Sitting high on a hill overlooking the Kathmandu Valley, this sacred site is one of Nepal’s oldest and most revered religious temples, and is quite popular among tourists and locals alike. The locals visit it mainly for praying and worshipping whereas most foreigners visit it to observe the architecture and to look at the monkeys! It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the few temples in Nepal that is visited by both Buddhists and Hindus.

The word Swayambhu literally translates as "self-created earth" or "self-existing surface". As I mentioned in the previous post, Kathmandu Valley was once a vast lake filled with serpents. A lotus flower blossomed in the center of the lake, and it is believed that the Swayambhunath Stupa emerged spontaneously on this spot when the lake was drained by Manjushree. However, if we are go to by the historical records, the stupa was built in the early 5th century by King Mandev.

Since the temple is perched on the top of a hill, getting to the top can be a bit of a work. You’ll need to ascend a long, steep stone staircase. However, when you reach the top, you will be rewarded with a panoramic view of Kathmandu. You will also get to observe the stupa up-close. Surrounding the main stupa are numerous smaller chaityas and shrines, prayer wheels engraved with mantras, and intricately carved stone sculptures.

The base of the stupa is ringed by brass prayer wheels, which devotees spin as they walk clockwise in a ritual called kora. Near the eastern staircase is a massive vajra (thunderbolt scepter) mounted on a golden pedestal. The entire complex reflects a blend of Tibetan Vajrayana Buddhism, Newar Buddhist art, and Hindu elements, making it a sacred site for multiple religions of Nepal.

Around the main stupa are small group of stupas scattered around. You’ll see locals lighting butter lamps, monks in maroon robes making their rounds, and plenty of tourists wandering around with cameras. There are also a few local shops selling you various religious items or cultural artifacts. The smell of incense floats in the air, and the sound of softly murmured prayers blends with the spinning of the prayer wheels and the occasional monkey chatter. The hill itself is densely forested, home to a huge number of monkeys that give the temple its nickname, as well as a variety of birds and other small animals.

Speaking of monkeys—yes, they’re everywhere, often seen scampering around the stupa, stealing offerings, or just lounging on statues like they own the place. These monkeys are considered holy and are said to be the descendants of the lice that grew in Manjushree's hair when he raised the Swayambhu hill. Make sure you don't carry any snacks or items in your hand because the monkey is likely to snatch them away from you. They could even scratch your body parts. So make sure to carry a stick or some object to drive them away in case they approach you.